Swimming with Whale sharks in Cancun

Whale sharks are the gentle giants of the oceans. A pelagic species, they tend to migrate where the eating is good (a bit like me!) For them, this means following abundant sources of plankton. There are known spots around the world where they are known to gather seasonally for big feeds. From May to September each year they feast off the coast of Cancun, Mexico and, this year, I was there!

I boarded a small 10m boat, with an excited group of seven tourists, north of Cancun and we set off. Lifejackets were insisted upon for all visitors and we soon understood why, it turned out to be an extremely bumpy hour-long journey to the area the whale sharks had been spotted in.

On arrival, with around four or five other boats for company, we quickly spotted dorsal fins and tails breaking the surface of the water – EXCITING! Strict rules regulate whale shark interactions in the area and only two swimmers + guide are allowed to enter the water at a time from each boat. Two-by-two we donned mask, snorkel and fins. The captain positioned the boat ahead of a shark and gave the nod to enter the water. We dropped in and as soon as we looked down into the water saw the whale shark swimming towards us.

It is so special to be in the water with these magnificent creatures. Being big ocean-going sharks, as well as an endangered species, it is rare to happen upon them. Having spent years as a diving instructor and underwater photographer, I’ve only met them by chance once.

Our swim was over almost as soon as it began because, while we swam as hard and fast as we were able, the whale shark only needed to flick its mighty tail once or twice and it was heading off into the blue! What memorable moments though!

Each visitor entered the water twice with the whale sharks. Between ‘swims’ there was a lot of bobbing about on the open ocean as the crew helped tourists get ready and into / out of the water. We (our boat) was probably with the whale sharks for about 90 minutes. Then we headed back towards the coast. It was another very rough trip and three passengers were sick. One attempted to vomit over the bow of the boat (going at speed) but the sick flew through the air and into the boat and onto people!

The crew took us to the north coast of Isla Mujeres for a snorkel tour (and / or to rinse off some vomit!) and then to anchor off the clear turquoise waters of Punta Norte beach for lunch and another swim.

Diving with sharks is always special, but the infrequency of whale shark encounters makes them extra amazing. At Ningaloo, Australia, there were five sharks together, in Cancun I saw four whale sharks feasting together. Apparently, in Cancun, larger groups of the animals have been seen together before (up to 100 apparently) so when I saw four it probably counted as a quiet day by local standards(!) It was an amazing experience though, enhanced by the fact the tour operators respected the animals and the rules in place to protect them.

Useful tips if you swim with whale sharks off Cancun:

• Wear a long-sleeved sunsuit / rashguard. Sun cream is forbidden to protect the sharks and other marine creatures and there is very little shade available on the small boats.
• Take a preventative motion sickness pill before you go, even if you don’t normally get seasick. The trip in the small boat was really rough!
• Take only essential items on the boat. Not only is it a rough trip, there’s very little space to stow things.
• Never try to touch a whale shark. They are wild creatures and deserve this basic respect. They may also dive to deeper water if you scare or annoy them.
• Trips only take place in the mornings and never on the 30^th of the month, in order to limit disturbing the sharks and give them a break from all of us gawking at them.
• Book your whale shark trip for the earlier days of your visit in case you need to rearrange due to bad weather.

Have you swum with whale sharks? Where and how many did you see?